‘It’s UATL’ podcast explores Black hair, chemical relaxers and braiding

More than 600 plaintiffs have filed lawsuits in Georgia against cosmetic companies that sold chemical hair relaxers.
The women allege they developed various cancers, including uterine and ovarian, or benign tumors in their reproductive systems after using the companies’ products.
In the latest episode of “It’s UATL,” hosts Nedra Rhone, Najja Parker, DeAsia Paige and Brooke Leigh Howard sat down with Dr. Michelle Gaines, a professor of chemistry at Spelman College, to dip deeper into the science of Black hair.
Professor Gaines has been conducting research into the structural components of curly hair and how it reacts to outside chemicals.
“I’m looking at ... the most basic fundamentals of hair — why it curls or why there’s a kink to it just within one fiber,” she said.
Gaines said the number of lawsuits were concerning.
“I mean, you know yourself, you know when something feels off,” she said.
An Atlanta Journal-Constitution analysis of court filings over the past three years showed Georgia has the largest concentration of hair relaxer litigation outside of Illinois.
Still, Gaines says it may be too soon for researchers to tie the relaxers to uterine cancer.
“If you think about it, you’re putting it on your scalp and what’s underneath our scalp? Our brain,” she said.
“There’s been a few studies where they’re trying to start looking at what are the long-term effects of relaxers. There just needs to be a lot more so that we can say definitively, ‘Yes, there’s something happening.’ ”
Gaines also spoke about protective styles such as cornrows, braids and weaves.
She said chemicals added in synthetic hair may also be detrimental, and recommended using human hair when possible.
“I feel like, oh, it’s a protective style. I’m good,” she said. “[But] we’re finding that it’s also drying out the hair and it’s just because it’s just a different material, that’s all.”
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